The Combiner is suitable for engines with alternator ouputs up to amps. This covers most outboard engines. If you have a higher output, you should use the Combiner This involves extra cables to the engine and often voids your warranty. Battery isolators also have a built in voltage drop so now your starting battery and your trolling battery no longer get a full charge. Whenever the outboard engine is running, the combiner will share the charging output with the trolling battery. When the engine is off, the trolling battery is separated from the starting battery and will not accidentally discharge it.
One-Wire Alternators: Are They Better Or Just Easier To Hook up?
April 12, This may get to be a bit long, but over the past few years I have had a number of Alternators go bad. The thing is they do not really quit. The problems are intermittent. We often drive for an extended time. During the night time everything works fine, nice cool air.
Feb 29, · The ‘one wire’ hooks up just like the diagram and the field (trigger) wire hooks to the coil power to turn on the alternator as soon as the coil gets powered up. Without this you have to wait for high rpm to turn it on.
The first thing that you will want to do is disconnect the bus batteries from the terminals. Remove the negative first, then the positive; this way you will be safe and you will not accidently shock your electrical system while working. The second step is to run the wire from one battery bank to the other. This wire need to be size properly to overcome the voltage drop that happens over long distances. This can be difficult to determine depending on how far apart your battery banks are and if you have access through the engine firewall or subfloor of your vehicle.
The wire should be placed inside the wire protective sleeve. This will prevent the wire from rubbing up against any metal and eventually shorting out. Once the wire is in place, you now can begin to attach the two systems together. The first part is to install the two breakers. The breaker should be sized to the wire used.
Can I hook my Amp’s power wire directly to the alternator ?
Just follow the diagram and instructions. There’s only ONE advantage to a “one wire” alternator wiring scheme – it’s great for those who want fast no-brainers or who don’t want to do a complete solution, or would rather shortcut things, or for those who don’t want to figure out how to wire an alternator which is one of the most basic of the car’s systems, IMO I guess if you feel the last of the other 2 wires “makes it look more neat”, you could call that a reason, but a properly wired 3 wire system can be made to look just as nice.
BTW – I’m looking into alternatives for the folks in the last sentence – mounting a non-stock regulator on the alternator and supplying a condensed harness that would connect in such a way it would leave options – and make the wiring more tidy. I believe I’ve found a small regulator that would attach right to the alternator which on an AMC V8 means it would be out of view mostly.
The driver’s side had the alternator, voltage regulator and dash power hook-up at the Horn Relay. The battery charging wire connected the battery at the right to the rest of the system at the left.
Contact us if you have any question about which part you may need. Will work on CS or CS alternators. CS D alternators will use the harness below. One wire will connect to the output post on the rear of the alternator and the other will be connected through a dash light or to a switched ignition source. New harness now has only the yellow Ignition wire into plug and does not have a seal on the wires.
One wire will hook to the output post of the alternator and the other will be connected to a switched ingnition source. Has a bypass jumper wire to keep dash light functioning. Existing lights and gauges will still function. This harness will work with 6G systems that have a gray colored regulator. Will allow alternator to turn on by connecting through a dash light or switched ignition source.
Easily ties into existing wiring for early externally regulated alternator systems. The D shaped plug will be the same as the factory harness and the instructions will show you how to hookup the wires from the rectangular plug correctly. You can also use it to change a single field alternator to a dual field alternator or change from the early style regulator to a transistorized regulator.
How-To: Permanent Magnet Alternator Swap (Also known as the Banshee Swap)
There are 2 brushes in the alternator, each one has a field terminal, one is labeled “FLD”, the other is labeled “GND”. The GND brush is grounded with the brush mounting screw. This green wire is connected at the voltage regulator at the “FLD” connection with a screw. The other connection on the voltage regulator is a blue wire with a female plug end.
This is the “IGN” Ignition side. Basically, the Voltage Regulator completes the charging circuit and allows the alternator to charge the system.
Oct 17, · You can get delta wound alternators which put out more amps. Much better than Y-wound in terms of output. PLEASE dont listen to clm about hooking the field wire to the positive batter post.
Charging Conversions 3 – Externally Regulated to Internally Regulated Alternator A conversion like this has two basic pieces to it – mechanical and electrical. You need to mount the new alternator so that it’s secure and you can put a belt around it and then you need to wire it up so it actually does something when you spin it. This is a non-trivial upgrade to your vehicle. It’s not that hard, but it could take some time to get right.
Don’t expect to have the car back on the road the same day you take it all apart. This is not an afternoon job for most home “shade tree” mechanics, although some of the easier conversions can be done fairly quickly. There are also commonly available kits to convert from an externally regulated alternator to an internally regulated alternator from places like MAD Enterprises – shop around to see if you can find one as it will make your life much, much easier. Mechanical Details If you are swapping out a generator, your hardest challenge will be finding brackets to mount your new alternator.
Unless you have access to custom built brackets or are good enough to make them yourself , you need to get ready-made units from somewhere. Since GM has produced lots of motors with generators, I can’t even begin to list aftermarket suppliers for them – start hunting around and see what you can find.
My other suggestion is to find out if your motor was produced in some form after that was the first year for alternators in GM vehicles and try to scavenge brackets from a later motor. Whatever you do for brackets, you’ll need to make sure it’s all secure, that you can adjust the alternator belt properly, and that all the pulleys line up. You may need to put new pulleys on your crankshaft and water pump in some cases – check carefully and get this parts right.
How to Choose an Alternator
To prevent this from happening in the future, it was suggested to Dave that he put a amp fuse in the wire that goes from the ignition switch back to the engine compartment, right near the switch at the plug. Such a fuse, the guy said, “will power everything, but blow if something screws up, which will kill power to the sensitive stuff. Better to replace a fuse that a switch.
3 Wire Alternator Wiring Diagram: single wire delco alternator wiring diagram in hook up instructions. alternator wiring diagrams. echanting might chevy alternator wiring diagram start power. how to wire a alternator wiring diagram single instructions. denso alternator wiring diagram.
This page is an explanation of the theory of operation behind the alternator and the generator. If you know how these critters work already, then this won’t matter much to you. If they are nothing short of alchemy and you need to work on or need to modify your charging system – then this page is a must-read for you. I wrote this as a side-bar to my work on various projects, see the High Amp Alternators for older GM’s and Alternator Conversions for GM’s articles for more details on each area.
Each section describes a basic component and how it works. My experience and thus this page is heavily tilted toward GM vehicles, so if your manual says different things for your car, trust it instead of me. I know Ford and Chrysler are fairly close to this, but some imported models use some really weird variations on these basic systems. The basic theory is the same, but some of the wiring is, um, a bit more funky that is described here.
In particular, I believe both the Ford and Chrysler alternator systems were externally regulated until well into the ’80s, and neither has the remote voltage sensing feature. There are unique issues to be aware of on each one, so I’d suggest that you go read up on them elsewhere before you attempt a non-GM swap. Or, just be like me and stick a GM alternator in it even if it’s not a GM.
How do i hook up alternator with inside regulate to my 69 Thunderbird?
Low RPM turn on and charge Fits factory applications Low and high current applications Multiple finishes available But now that people are driving their classic cars more often, and upgrading them to be more drivable, they are also adding more electrical components so that driving them is more enjoyable. Some cars also have an air suspension system, meaning the compressor needs to keep that air tank full — and that draws on the electrical system more than ever was intended. Upgrades to digital ignition boxes and alarm systems also add to the amount of wiring that is added to a vehicle; people are also adding electric cooling fans to replace the mechanical fan.
The Ford ‘Square Ear’ Alternator, This alternator is the most commonly used on passenger cars and light trucks. Easily identifiable by ‘Square Ear’ mounting lug on the case with the threaded hole.
Replacing and Relocating the Alternator with a CS A recent replacement of the front crankshaft seal motivated me to start a project that I have planned but have been postponing for some time. Replacing the anemic original Jaguar alternator with a modern Unit. While there are a number of alternators that will physically fit in the air pump location, I decided to relocate the alternator to the air pump location and replace it with a Delco CS alternator for the following reasons: GM made hundreds of thousands on these alternators from to Some independent alternator rebuilders have expressed some concern that this unit suffered from overheating and had a somewhat high failure rate of the rear bearings.
For me this was not an issue.
Can you hook an alternator to an electric motor and have it charge the batteries as it runs?
While working on my Ranchero , I decided I needed a better alternator and wondered if I could put a GM internally regulated alternator on the car to help improve the charging system performance. They’re good solid units, they are readily available at any parts store in up to 94A outputs, and I’m very familiar with them. I surfed around a bit and found out that swapping a GM 10SI or 12SI series alternator in place of the Ford unit is a pretty straightforward swap, so I decided to do it.
In preparation for the swap, I put all the info I learned into this tech page – the theory being that if I can’t explain it to someone else, I don’t really understand it yet. I already have a page for upgrading a GM charging system with lots of good details and links to other tech resources – both on my site and on other sites. If this swap interests you, I would suggest you read my other pages as well as this page.
The battery absorbs voltage surges until the alternator catches up with the regulator, if the load is abruptly decreased, and the alternator has a power surplus. The battery supplies voltage, if the load suddenly increases, until the alternator catches up with the regulators call for more power.
Tech , Alternators How do you hook up a 1-wire alternator? What do you do when the stock alternator was originally externally regulated? The only thing you need to hook up on a one-wire alternator is a charge wire from the terminal on the alternator to the positive terminal on the battery or any positive battery source.
The external regulator can either be totally dismantled from the firewall or left in place. If left in place, be sure to disconnect the wiring harness from the regulator. The wiring harness has to be disconnected from the regulator or the indicator light on the dash will remain on. GM 1-wire operation Most 1-wire alternators have a charging point set around rpm or higher.
This is the speed where the internal sensory circuit connects the battery voltage to the regulator, thereby turning the alternator on. Once the voltage regulator turns on, the alternator will remain on and charging until the engine comes to a complete stop. If the engine idle speed and pulley ratio combination does not allow the alternator to come to during start-up, the engine will have to increase the RPM to engage the one wire alternator.